Walking far from Home

 I thought I would show you who fills my life here, some places that I go to and some things that I've seen and done.  Here goes...

These colourful close pins hang on the clothes line that is set up at our house.  When you walk around Tamale there is always clothes hanging somewhere or draped over a fence or slightly hanging off a roof, anything that will spread the clothes out so it can dry.  While in Ghana I have the incredible luxury of having a cleaning lady.  Her name is Augustina.  She is a young women that Elizabeth met through the church that she attends here in Ghana.  She comes in once a week to do our laundry and clean the house.  I absolutely love and feel so grateful when I come home Saturday afternoons after a market run or outing with friends to a clean house and clothes drying on the line.  How wonderful!!!

This is my favourite restaurant in Tamale.  Its called Swad.  Owned by an Indian couple.  Mohamed and Unice and the nicest of all the wait staff I have met and they work very hard since they are two of the three waiters that I have seen there no matter what time of day and which day of the week.  The food is delicious and as you can see it is quite pretty.  P.S. They do not have a branch in Bolga 

 This is me trying to discreetly take a picture of the inside of one of the smallest and most rundown cabs I've been in.  I could not tell you what brand of car it is but its tiny and they still manage to fit six people in them.  So, here the taxis sort of have roots that they do all day, kind of like bus roots in Canada, so when you stop a cab you mention where you are going and he will tell you if he is going there or not.  Some will take you even if he is going elsewhere but when that happens you may pay more.  Most people do the shared taxi which means he piles in as many people that will fit into his car and brings you on your way.  This will cost you anywhere from 50 to 90 pesewas so 25 to 45 cents.  Anyway, so on this particular day the taxi driver asked me where I was going.  I said Chogu road.  Great! I hop in.  In a few minutes a women flags him down and they, in the Dagbani, arrange for her destination.  When we got on Chogu road he asked me how much further.  I then told him my neighbourhood - Yapalsi.  He promptly said "I'm not going there" opened the door for me and put his hand out for payment.  Yikes!  Maybe I should have been more specific.

 Even under the sun it is always pleasant to walk around because you get to hear and see things that fly buy when you are in a taxi swerving through traffic and honking at cyclists and goats.  On one of these walks, I happened to look over and saw this amazing assortment of sewing machines.  They are everywhere here.  Most are the really "old fashion" kind that mean you spin everything with your hand instead of an electric pedal.  There are seamstresses who line the roads and bits and strips of cut up fabric surrounding their workspaces.  All of the amazingly colourful traditional clothing that both the men and women wear here are made by these women.  I can't help but think of my grandmother when I see these beautiful machines and I can't wait to show her these pictures and give her the six yards or beautiful pink lace fabric I got her. 

 Walking around also means surprises surprises!  On my way out from one of the radio stations I work with this gentlemen was entertaining the school children who were coming home from school. Actually, entertaining may be a little off since many of them seemed to be afraid of his puppet.  The man had a radio hanging around his neck and it was playing...ozunto of course and the little puppet was bopping his bum up and down to the beat.  He was quite good.  In an earlier post I mentioned that what I had seen from Ghanian "culture" seemed homogenous and I had not seen or heard a lot of interesting things and although it does not come in the form that I am used to it is all over the place.  I just had to take a breath open my eyes and realize it.  

Sometimes a taxi ride will offer pretty spectacular sites as well.  Like this - a man on a horse riding down busy busy Chogu road.  Horses here are pretty rare and in fact are usually only owned by the chiefs.  This man is not the chief but maybe his brother or someone who works for him or even his son maybe.  I'm not quite sure but generally if a chief is out and about he looks fancier then that.  There are traditional smocks and horse tail whip type things and hats and and and...

 Ah this lovely gentlemen!!!!  He was standing in the corner of the room carefully watching over me as I got a massage at one of (maybe there is just one but maybe not) Tamale's spas.  The massage was...uhm...not the most relaxing experience of my life and the small bruises on my arms after attested to that BUT I have to admit it was nice to feel a human touch.  Being out here can be a little lonely in the hugging and touching and affection area.  

 These are the lovely ladies who came to the spa with me.  We were celebrating Leanne's (on the right) birthday.  In the middle is Tarini, who has gone home now saddly.  And finally on the left is Gillian.  I have met some pretty amazing women on this adventure.  I say women because there is about one guy for every oh lets say 50 women.  No, I don't know, but a lot less men then women.  Or, maybe I just haven't met any of them.  Regardless, the women are awesome.  

 Here is another one of Leanne.  (and just to make a liar out of me she is sitting between two men BUT they live in Accra so they don't really count)  Some friends made her a chocolate cake for her birthday. It was truly the most delicious piece of cake I have ever eaten in my entire life.  The texture that we are accustomed to at home doesn't really exist in cakes here in Ghana so it was such a wonderful treat to eat a moist ultra chocolaty piece of cake.  Plus we were celebrating such a special person too.  Leanne has quickly become a very dear friend of mine and I feel lucky to have met her.  

 More people I have grown to love here very much.  Bhavna (left), Barbara (middle) and Claudia (right).  Missing from this photo is Auntie Jane.  These are a few of the women who get together for lunch every Sunday.  These Sunday lunches have truly become sacred to me and I wait for them every week.  The group is diverse and fluctuates from week to week but the four mentioned above, plus me now, are pretty much the regulars since I have been attending.  

A little about these ladies. Bhavna is in her 20's.  She is Indian but grew up here.  Her parent's own a shop here and she works there for now.  She went to University in India.  She has traveled to quite a few places and is now feeling the itch again to go off on another adventure.  Barbara is sort of embarking on an adventure of her own.  She is originally from the US and moved here five years ago.  She married a Ghanian some years back and after spending years in the States came here when they retired.  She is a retired school teacher and on her arrival here was asked to be the headmistress of a school.  So, like so many of the retired teachers I know - Mom I'm looking at you!!! - she said yes and just keeps on working.  She, in fact, reminds me very much of my mom and I can't express how comforting it is to be around an energy that is so familiar.  Claudia is here as the lead for the HUGE new project.  She is set to be here 2 years.  She has a lot of experience in this type of work and has been all over.  Then there is Auntie Jane.  She is originally from England but has been in Ghana for over 50 years now.  She owns a school and her husband is hmmm a barrister?!  I'm not quite sure, but he is an influential person and has been for many years.  She tells us stories about how he was in jail when one of her sons was born.  He was jailed because the political party at the time thought he was a threat. Best Auntie Jane quote ever "The first thing you do when there is a coup is go get fuel. No wait, first you take the political stickers off your car, then you go get fuel"  Nice!!!

Thanks to Barbara I was able to get my hair cut and WOW did it ever need it.  Plus I was so tired of having it stick to my neck all the time.  And this "salon" day also meant cake and ice cream and nice long smart and fun conversation. 

This is Waheed.  He is one of the older boys who lives around my house.  He was the first to use my name instead of saliminga (white person) .  I wanted to dance for joy that day.  The kids are slowly starting to use my name and since Waheed's english is more advanced he encourages the others.  He is also very helpful to get them to not follow me to my gate all the time.  

This is Fahima (front) and Rahama (back)  Oh the sweet sweet girls!!!  Fahima has recently started going to school which makes me so unbelievably happy.  I was walking to the main road a few months ago and met her mom walking back home.  I asked how she was and she mentioned that she had just dropped Fahima off at school.  This time I really did jump up and down and do a little dance and cheer.  Zenar, her mom, thought I was pretty funny!

Fadil (left) you may remember from an earlier post.  He is still around and is still just as cute as before.  Its crazy how much he has grown since we first arrived.  In the middle is Binsu.  She is a ball of energy.  She always wants to hold my hand.  Because of her I started playing "head and shoulders, knees and toes" with them.  She loves to dance and play and run around.  On the right is her little brother Hafees.  He is by far the brightest ray of sunshine I have ever met in my life.  I can sit with him for 10 minutes and just giggle and laugh cause he will just giggle and laugh back.  No words are exchanged because I don't speak Dagbani and he doesn't speak english but man oh man he just makes my days so so bright.  And he is a fast one.  When he decides to come and see me his little arms are to his side and he jets by and is hugging my legs in a flash.  

This is Raouda.  She's a little little one.  On this day she was strolling around the neighbourhood with nothing but her little waist beads on.  I was wearing my sunglasses and wanted her to come and see me but I think they scared her a little so off she went in a very decided step.  

And the smallest one of all is Vialong.  She is my compound neighbour Shamima's brand new little baby. Only a month and a half old.  She is so adorable.  And apparently I have magic arms since whenever I hold her she falls fast asleep.  

With all of these adorable faces around how will I ever leave them.  I often wonder if they will remember me when I have gone.  Will they think of that saliminga that lived in their neighbourhood when they were kids? Will they remember that we sang songs together and that I stroked their little cheeks and foreheads and tickled their little bellies.  Will they remember that they stroked my arms and hugged me and touched my hair?  

Speaking of compound neighbours, this is Francis.  Here he is cracking open a coconut for Elizabeth with his machete.  He is wearing a headlamp because we didn't have any electricity that evening.  I have spent many an evening sitting with him and discussing Ghana and the world, all of its problems and cultural diversity.  Its great and it is surely another thing I will greatly miss.  

I mentioned incredible women earlier and here is the work of one of those women.  Her name is Nafisa and she is the leader behind Beads Of Hope.  She organizes a group of women who make the most beautiful bead jewelry and this enables them to have their own income and in some cases pay for school.  She does amazing work and I am happy to promote her.  She has a facebook page.  Please feel free to check her out.  And for those of you who live in Canada she has an etsy page and will deliver to you.  

follow her here : https://www.facebook.com/beadsofhopeghana

And last one for today - this is me standing in the pouring rain.  Why am I doing this?  Because I had a feeling it would be the last rain of the rainy season before it disappeared for several months.  I was right!  Plus I've always wanted to do this and the rains here are so powerful that it was just what I had to do.  

So there it is a little glimpse into everyday life and the people who fill it.  Thank you universe its a magnificent ride!!!

Crocodile Rock

Wow! An entire month since I have written.  Many things have happened in the last month but today I will concentrate on a pretty cool outing I was able to do while here in Ghana.  

I TOUCHED A CROCODILE!!!

(this is me examining and really taking the time to feel his skin.  I wanted to feel him breathing but he was so still)

(I am clearly really enjoying this) 

That's right, a living, breathing crocodile.  This is, believe it or not, a very popular tourist attraction in the small town of Paga near the Burkina Faso border.  In fact, it seems everybody I know has been there and has the almost identical photos of themselves holding up the crocodile tail, then sitting (without ever putting your full weight down of course) on it.  

(notice his friend in the background - I kept wanting to touch him more but the guard quickly told me to absolutely not touch his legs.  I was feeling adventurous but not that much.) 

When I posted the picture above on my Facebook page the reaction was incredible.  In fact, I think its the photo that has gotten the most comments and likes in the history of my Facebook life.  Obviously, I am very aware of the apparent uniqueness of this experience but since every person I know here has done it the impact of it has slightly lessened.  Don't get me wrong the animal was incredible.  Its stillness was discomforting since you felt like at any moment he could jump and snap you up in his jaws.  Luckily, we had bought 4 chickens for them, there were two who came out of the pond, to eat.  

(Elizabeth is not so sure)

(Still not so sure)

My surprisingly relaxed approaching of the animal most probably happened because this fantastic and mysterious creature had been photographed by so many of my friends that this experience seemed to be the regular thing, the norm, the "well of course I sat on the crocodile doesn't everybody?".  

(Eating a live chicken so it does not eat us haha - but seriously he is eating a live chicken)

Isn't it incredible how life so far from what you lived only a few months ago has become the regular thing, the norm, the "well of course there was a cow walking against traffic in down town Tamale", "well of course there is a shop called God's signature, no erasers enterprise", "well of course there is a motorcycle driving on the sidewalk going in the opposite direction of traffic", "well of course the item that I ordered int he menu is not available", "well of course I can buy water, tomato paste, ice cream, instant coffee, powdered milk, clothing detergent or whisky in a sachet", "well of course I can buy phone cards, passport holders, knives or a snack without leaving my car while being stopped at a stop light".  All of these things are part of my everyday life now. 

 (My friend Christine who came with us) 

(Christine's husband Peter who came with us)

I will admit that there is always something new that surprises me or a new combination of the seemingly normal things that will make me smile and remember that I'm on this incredible adventure and I am forever amazed by the ability to adapt.  During a radio interview I was asked what has made an impression the most and my answer, at the time, was EVERYTHING.  The things that are just like home I notice because they are part of my previous "normal" and the things that are different from home because, well, they are different from home.  I am constantly telling myself "oh i need to remember this" and hopefully a lot of them I will but even as I sit here I am trying to recall all of them and its hard.  

What I can say is that on many many occasion during leisurely walks around Tamale I have felt proud of myself, perfectly content, in awe of the beauty of this place, the sounds of this place, the rhythm of this place, the colours of this place - and the crocodiles of course :)  

Giving thanks

I’ll admit that for the past few weeks I’ve been having a tough time in Ghana.  The heat, the bugs, the not having water, the electricity going off constantly, the bugs, the heat have been a real pain in the you know what.  A few days ago I got pink eye for the first time in my life and had to go to a clinic.  I was worried and even scared.  What would this clinic look like? How long would I have to wait? Would the doctor speak english enough to understand me? (All was calm after my visit to the clinic.  It was great, the doctor was super nice and I got the medication I needed and my eye is healing) Is my immune system finally giving in?  Is this the beginning of a long list of things that would go wrong? 

There have been many other questions as well.  Am I looking to far into my belly button and missing out on all the experiences I could be enjoying?  Am I making the most of this?  Am I really building long lasting relationships? Do I even know how?  Am I doing well at work?  Does it make a difference? Is my life here just as spoiled as it was at home? Do I still have or am I even creating prejudices?  Am I learning anything? Do I say I to much? 

In Canada today is a day to give thanks.  Sitting in my room in Ghana, Africa I am making a list.

I am thankful for:

• my amazing family who has, throughout my life, been super and even sometimes overly supportive of me
• the amazing friends back home who, even though I am on the other side of the world, keep me posted on what’s happening back home, send me love via messages and care packages and chat with me
• having the chance to be here in Africa, a place I never thought I would actually ever get to
• a life where there are choices, where to go to school, where to live, which restaurant to go to, what to drive, what to read, where to work, what to eat, whether i want to get married or have kids, what clothes to wear, all choices big and small but choices to have the life I want
• Sunday lunches with new friends that I will miss when i leave this place
• new friends in general that I will miss when I leave this place
• being able to eat a mars bar every once in a while (that being said I should really eat them more slowly but man oh man they are good)
• discovering photography
• the chance to go to Zimbabwe and Botswana for Christmas (fingers crossed that this will happen)
• the fact that Fahima, one of my little neighbours, has started going to school
• the fact that some of my little neighbours have started calling me by my name instead of saliminga (white person)
• the colour oh the many colours of this place
• the joy that comes when you find the veggie or fruit you were looking for in the market
• all the little kids playing outside that welcome me home everyday
• my neighbour Shamima’s new born daughter Vialong (not the right spelling I’m sure but it means beauty)
• the taxi drivers I use regularly who call to see how I am when I’m out of town
• and so so so much more

I’ll admit I’m full of questions and worries and although being thankful comes easily enough it usually happens in retrospect.  I guess its better late than never.  I will probably never stop questioning myself and my experiences but today I’m giving myself permission instead of feeling guilty about it.  Its thanksgiving we are aloud to reflect.  

Bonne action de grâce!  

Que la terre lui soit légère - May the earth of our ancestors lay gently over them

(a grave in a Catholic cemetery in Bolgatanga) 

I have always said that when I started traveling that I would visit places of worship and cemeteries. This may seem odd but to me both these places are a great way to have more insight on a culture.  I can't wait to see Oscar Wilde's grave or the temples of Tibet.  So far here in Ghana I have had the chance to attend one Pentecostal service and I have seen one Catholic cemetery.  

A few words about the service first.  I was invited by my neighbour who is a fervent christian. Most of those attending the Sanctuary of Wind and Fire were in their twenties.  It was lively and there was a lot of music.  The preacher, although extremely loud, was charismatic.  He did seem to, when he got particularly inspired, change his voice in a very odd way.  His breath suddenly got short and his voice very corse.  It did not get me inspired but the crowd responded by shouting out or raising their hands to the sky or by hopping in place or even falling to their knees.  It was pretty intense but I have to admit that I felt mostly uncomfortable and wanted to leave.  

(age: 16 years)

The cemetery you see in the photos is in Bolgatanga.  It is the only one I have seen here in Ghana so far.  They do not appear on the sides of roads like those we have in Canada.  I walked around expecting to see much younger people buried there.  I'm not exactly sure why I was expecting that but it was not always the case.   The graves are really very big and made out of cement.  Some have plaques, some have the names of the deceased written by hand while the cement was still wet.  And as you can see in the photos some have elaborate sculptures on them.  

(age 70)

(large and elaborate)

The cemetery was not in very good condition and it does not seem like anyone maintains the grounds in any way.  Unfortunate really since often I find these types of places quite calming and inspire reflection.   

(There is a crack in everything. That's how the light gets in. - Leonard Cohen)

(a cross)

(23.11.77)

As I was walking around taking photos but also taking the time to see and breath and take it all in I was approached by three little girls.  One of them had what looked to me to be a bit of a treasure.  She wanted to give it to me but I was not about to take this little box from her.  I did offer to open it for her when I saw that she was struggling with it.  It was a glasses case and inside was truly a young person's little treasure.  Since I did not accept this gift I did offer to snap a photo of them.  Little kids love to have their photos taken and if you show them their image on your digital camera they are in heaven.  Here the three of them are...

(truly a treasure)

This entire situation made me think of the movie Le fabuleux destin d'Amélie Poulain.  In the movie she finds a small tin filled with this same kind of treasure.  She decides to find who it belongs to and return it to him.  If, when he is reunited with his treasure, he is happy, she has decided that she will actively get involved in other people's lives.  Its an amazing movie, one of my favourites, and I recommend it to everyone.  It is available in its original language, french, but also in english and with subtitles.  If you are english I recommend with subtitles instead of the voice over version.  

Here is a link to the trailer for the movie. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=juuF_btrW4U

(Que la terre lui soit légère - May the earth of our ancestors lay gently over them) 

Ebony Eyes

(mama and her babies)

There is no lack of cuteness in this country let me tell you.  The children are many and for the most part they are thrilled to see us.  When we arrive in a community they gather fairly quickly and will happily sit and watch us for the hour or so that we are there.  The kids in my neighbourhood are still just as excited to see us drive up even after four months of seeing us almost everyday.  They still yell "Saliminga hello!!!" usually with their little hand near their ear like they are holding a telephone.  I'm not exactly sure why or how they learned that but in Tamale it is pretty consistent when they greet us.  

To add to their adorableness many of the little girls have on the cutest jewelry.  Earrings are usually done very early, like in the first two weeks after they are born.  They also wear little beaded necklaces or simple strings with leather pendants.  There are also baby size bracelets of all kinds sold everywhere. Then there are the waist beads, worn for protection against negative energy or sickness.  Ghana is often considered the bead production capital of the world so why not dress up for everyday occasions.  

(see her bangles, earrings, leather pendant and sparkly sandals and although you cannot quite see it she is wearing her little earrings backwards probably so the back doesn't poke her) 

(beaded necklace with what seems like the Adinkra symbol for "except for God" although it seems to be missing part of it) 

(leather pendant here, accompanied by a lovely beaded bracelet) 

(many pretty leather pendants here and with the traditional cloth dress could she be any cuter? Nope, I don't think so.  Oh and the hair!  The HAIR!!!)

Another great thing about these lovely little people is that it seems that as soon as you are stable enough to carry anything it becomes part of your responsibility to take care of those smaller than you.  Children carry children and care for them like they were theirs.  Both girls and boys do this.  Since, often times, they are out playing while their parent's are working in the field or washing clothes or doing any other of the many tasks they must do to live here the kids are often on their own and so, need to take care of each other.  When one falls or cries the older kids pick them up and wipe their tears.  For the many many helicopter parents of the western world this would be mortifying.  What!?!, kids playing on their own without a parent yelling at them all the time to keep clean, watch out for the rocks, don't use your imagination?  

(little people taking care of other little people)

(mom is not the only one that can carry the little one on her back) 

Ok now that I have bombarded you with absolute delightfulness lets move on to a more serious topic.  These children are happy.  They play and their parents love them but many do not have enough food to eat or the food they eat does not give them the nutrition they need.  We are all familiar with the images of little African children, who oddly enough never come from a specific country on the continent but are just labeled as African, on television with flies on their faces and dirt all over. This does exist and it is a major issue.  Many of the meals a lot of the children of Northern Ghana eat do not have the vitamins and protein they need.  They are basically staple foods that fill the belly so that you do not feel hungry.  Malnutrition is a real problem for children and adults of this country. BUT, it is not the only picture.  There is hope. You can see this by all the smiling faces and piercing eyes in these photos.  

(the second boy from the left shows clear signs of malnutrition since his belly button has pushed out completely)  

Parents do the best they can with what they have but when you think that Ghana produces electricity for surrounding countries (and yet has trouble supplying it's own people), it produces cocoa for most of the world and has gold and natural gas flowing abundantly you wonder why it isn't easier.  Most people in the North of the country are very poor and the money and power seem to be concentrated in the South but I digress. Lets get back to malnutrition. A sign that I did not know about was the discolouration of hair.  It turns the hair a copper colour and it is much more brittle than normal.  

(a lesser known sign of malnutrition)

A word on education as well, in Ghana, public primary school is free.  This does not, however, include the uniform and the books and pencils and paper they need for the classroom. High school is not free and costs approximately 100 GHC per year so approximately 50$ CAD.  Not that much right?  Well, it is, in fact, quite a lot of money for these families.  Many organizations concentrate on the building or painting of schools and, although having the infrastructure is vital, pretty coloured buildings does not guarantee education.  I'm not sure what the solution is.  It is layered and complicated but it is certainly food for thought.  How can the system concentrate on both aspects while prioritizing actual education for its people?  Is infrastructure the beginning and foundation of development or is it the bonus that comes with an educated, healthy people?  Is it realistic to think that work can be done on all of it at the same time? If not, what takes the back seat and who suffers because of that?  Back to smily faces...

(how do you not fall in love with this)

The children in these photos are pretty happy to see us but this is not the case for all children.  Some are genuinely scared maybe because they are shy and don't like strangers in general or maybe because we seem so strange to them.  Their first time seeing a white person might be a little traumatizing.  I was even told that some parents tell their children (or did back in the day I don't know how common this is now) that if they did not behave that white people would come and take them away. Now, please do not be offended by this since both times that I was told this story it was told with jest in the person's voice and seemed to be something that was done a long time ago.  Regardless, I can understand how seeing a white person for the first time when you are a little kid can be a little destabilizing.  

(little boy in traditional smock sitting and listening attentively during a focus group discussion - oh the little hands and ears and curls)

The other day I was walking to a friend's house and there was a young boy and his mom ahead of me.  When the little boy spotted me he immediately clung to his mother's legs.  She picked him up as I was approaching.  I said hello, because everyone says hello to everyone all the time here in Ghana, and waved to the little boy.  His mother asked him in english why he was scared and I saw an opportunity to take away some of that fear so I stopped walking and went up to the pair.  I put my hand out to him to shake his hand.  He reluctantly did the same but when we touched he jumped and pulled back hiding his face in his mom's neck.  After a few moments he looked up again and I tried again this time just putting my hand out without showing a sign of taking his hand for a hand shake.  He crept up and touched my hand again as I said "you see it is the same just a different colour".  It more or less worked and his mother seemed pleased.  I walked away hearing the mom saying to her son "you don't have to be scared".  Sweet moment but as I think back on it now pretty intense.  

(running around and playing)

(making believe that she is cooking joloff rice maybe?) 

(sleeping comfortably on mom) 

Another interesting cultural practice that took me a long time to figure out is the eyeliner wearing babies.  At first, I thought it was a sign of some kind of nutritional deficiency or even disease but it isn't.    Women and babies and even men wear black eyeliner around their eyes as a sign of beauty.  It is also believed, it seems, that this liner will protect the eyes from dust and other things that could get into the eyes.   Although I'm not sure about the protection part of this habit it certainly is pretty darling. 

(these eyes) 

After a long day at work it is always a joy to see smiling faces and hear the laughter of all of these little people who run and play and, for now, don't seem to have a care in the world.  For my part, forgetting that there are so many challenges to face does not quite disappear but its hard not to have hope when they are around.