Let's talk about goats baby!!!

Hello everyone!!

Sorry for the delay but getting regular internet was a bit of a challenge.  It's all good now so I should be able to give you at least one post per week.  

 (Goats, goats everywhere!!!)

Let's talk about goats baby!!!  They are EVERYWHERE.  They hang out under cars, near shops, in the ditches, on the road.  Really truly everywhere.  I asked Mohamed, a guy who works with Ben (our country coordinator) if the goats belonged to anybody and he said "Oh yeah!" the next natural question was "How the heck do they know which goat belongs to who? None of them are tagged and they roam everywhere"  Answer - "They just know.  At night the goat owners roam around and collect them.  Some goats even head home on their own"  And its true after dark when you walk the streets all the goats are gone.  Strange!  I will investigate this further.   

(more goats )

I have been in Ghana two weeks and so far I have stayed in two hotels and I'm on my third hostel.  Some are nicer than others let me tell you!  And, this is the thing about Ghana, no matter how fancy the hotel or hostel electricity, water and toilet paper are never guaranteed.  So I've come to realize how important it is to keep my computer charged and to remember to keep a head lamp with me for the black outs.  Week one lesson about always having toilet paper is coming in very handy.  

(hostel one) 

(a little reminder on the door in our first hostel)

(outside at our first hostel) 

(hostel two was kind of a dungeon glad we didn't stay there long)

(hostel two - oh yeah washrooms are as bad as they look) 

(hostel three) 

(hostel three)

(hostel three - where I sit as I'm writing this)

Last week we were in Bolgatanga for a Farm Radio International workshop.  We got to spend three days with the radio people and the agricultural people we will be working with during our time here.  It was great.  They are lovely, enthusiastic about the project, knowledgable in their respective fields and fun to be around.  That's reassuring because let's face it I'm learning just as much from them as they may from me.  Quick note about Miss Lydia, Elizabeth and I's new Ghanaian momma.  From what I understand she owns the radio station in Bolgatanga.  She is quite amazing and has a fascinating story as well.  I hope to get the chance to sit with her and talk and photograph her as well.  I'll keep you posted.  

(some of the people we will be working with - Lydia is unfortunately not in this photo) 

We spent four days in Bolgatanga but are back in Tamale now and thank goodness because there are restaurants here that serve a variety of things.  Ghanaians mostly eat chicken and rice, fufu and tuo zafi.  I've eaten A LOT of chicken and rice.  The fufu is a white doughy ball that does not really have any flavour (according to sources because i haven't tried it yet) and it is served with meat that is in a kind of soup that is very oily and very spicy.  Tuo zafi is very similar.  As I have mentioned before, I'm taking baby steps when it comes to food so that I don't get sick.  When said fufu and tuo zafi is eaten I will update. 

(Tamale)

(woman with baby - Tamale)

The pop here is almost always Coke and it has a slightly different flavour than Coke in Canada.  I feel like it isn't as sweet.  What I do know is, if I have it when I'm too hot it means instant heart burn so I'm trying to stick to water and juice as much as possible.  At night when it cools down I'm able to indulge sometimes.  There is also this Malta stuff (see photo) made by Guinness.  Ingredients are water, barley, malt, sugar, caramel E150(c), hops and vitamins.  It's non alcoholic.  Weird!  

(Malta by Guinness - Goodness - Energy - Vitality)

We are working on finding a permanent place to lay our heads and hopefully by the end of the week we will have something pinned down.  That will surely make a huge difference in our daily lives since we'll be able to finally settle and make Tamale our home.  So far we've had tons of drivers and restaurant time and people helping with every detail so its difficult to imagine being independent and functional.  Living out of a suitcase isn't very fun either.  We will settle soon.  Elizabeth is much better than me at remembering names and making friends and I admire her for that.  One of my goals on this adventure was to get rid of some of my anxieties and so I'm looking forward to learning that openness from her.  

(Elizabeth going to run some errands) 

(The Canadian Feed the Children office where we will be based in Tamale)

(road to the Canadian Feed the Children office)

Ouff so many things to share.  Quick fire observations:

-besides goats there are cows, chickens, donkeys and pigs that roam free
-the Ghanaians that are employed in offices wear pretty formal clothes to work 
-men's shirts often have french cuffs and they looove their fancy shoes
-many places I have been play country music.  That's right Dolly Parton's Jolene blaring at the gas station
-coffee here is instant :-(
-nobody says bye when they hang up the phone so there is always a little moment of confusion at the end of the call
-May 25th was the 50th anniversary of the African Unity.  It is also a long weekend in Ghana.  On the news the headline read "Is Africa unity a reality?"

(pigs roaming)

(cows roaming)

I will leave you with this for this week.  Below you will see a BEAUTIFUL picture of my dirty feet than of ME after a walk to work in the morning.  Its really hot here.  I was, and am very very often, completely sticky from sweat, and anybody who knows me understands to what extent that is a challenge for me.  Learning to let go... On the up side I think i'm loosing weight :)  

(dirty, sticky, stinky, dusty and a little bit tanned even though you can't see it FEET)

(oh yeah I posted that photo of me - it's freakin' hot in Ghana)

P.S Happy birthday to my sister Nat - Je t'aime xo

First impressions

Week one in Ghana 

(our hotel in Accra the Oscarpak Royal Hotel - Home of Homes)

Well hello readers!  I have finally had a few moments to sit and figure this blogging thing out.  I have to admit that besides the technical part of of things i'm a little nervous about this since i know many of you from home, along with new friends here in Ghana, have been waiting impatiently for me to start.  I hope to be informative and entertaining. 

Let us start at the beginning.  We (Elizabeth my Farm Radio International (FRI) partner and I) got on the plane in Toronto on Monday May 13th at 23h45.  It was Elizabeth's 32nd birthday but since we weren't sitting together we didn't really have the chance to celebrate.  I sat between, who I think are, the two oldest human beings on the face of the planet.  Seriously, the tiny cane using old muslim man on my right was at least 102 years old and the just as tiny wheelchair using indian woman on my left was probably 100.  They didn't get up once to go to the washroom during the entire 7 hr flight and needless to say i didn't do much moving around either.  I slept a lot of the way but, as i had predicted, i was sick on the landing.  We arrived at Heathrow airport and because we only had a 4 hr lay over we went straight to our next gate.  

Off we went again for a 6 1/2 hr flight to Accra, the capital of Ghana.  This flight was better seating wise since i was in a aisle seat.  We did have 6 blond British pretty girls who got drunk and flicked their hair a lot.  A little entertaining but mostly annoying since my head felt like it was going to explode.  Landing was a better.  No puking this time.  Luggage pick up time and oh what's this? My big, huge, banagram, crocs, hat, sunglasses, towels and tons of other important stuff carrying suitcase isn't coming around.  Fill out a report at the airport to get my luggage and pray it comes in before we leave the capital.  

After being asked for a tip from 3 men who "helped" us with our luggage the driver FRI provided us brought us to the hotel. It's dark and looking out the window nothing looks like anything.  Finally, a bed!!!!!!!!  BUT no sleep yet I had to clean out the shampoo explosion from the suitcase that did make it to Ghana and, since I was lucky enough to have my period, I washed the one pair of jeans i brought from the huge blood stain I made. I was really happy! (insert sarcasm here)  

(art on the wall in the lobby of our hotel)

Wednesday morning 8h30 our room phone rings.  Its Ben our project coordinator in Ghana.  Orientation starts in half an hour.  OUFF GO!!!

During orientation we talked with a lawyer who gave us a short history of Ghana, we spoke with a doctor who had a power point presentation but after 45 minutes and two hotel employees trying to set it up he just gave us the info verbally instead. (Africa time experience #1)  Later that day we got to speak with a police officer named Elvis Sadongo.  His real name is not Elvis obviously, but in highschool he was a singer in a band and thought it would be a good name for him. He also told us that when he worked for the UN his co-workers put a huge poster of Elvis in front of Graceland in his office space.  

Diner time 19h30.  I order tilapia and plain rice from the hotel restaurant.  Some volunteers are thinking of going to see some jazz at a bar near by.  I'd like to go but haven't eaten yet.  An hour and a half later i receive my meal. (African time experience #2)

Thursday I'm sitting outside on the covered balcony relaxing a bit after a bit of info from our in country orientation and what comes on the speakers in the little outside bar area of the hotel? Randy freakin' Travis.  That's right!  And after that I get Kenny Rogers.  

(view from the balcony where i'm sitting listening to Kenny Rogers)

MY LUGGAGE HAS ARRIVED!!!!  In the afternoon on thursday we head out to the airport again. I can see, for the first time, in the daylight the great ACCRA!  Wowza how to describe what i see.  What seems to be abandoned huts along the road sell just about everything you can think of from shoes to cell phones to fruit to brooms to leather couches.  Everything is displayed out in the open.There are people everywhere.  Some sit in the shades of trees others are lying on wooden benches and tons are walking on the side of the road.  Behind these many little shacks there are huge buildings which either seem in full construction or totally abandoned.  You can't really make out any difference between the two.  There are cars everywhere and people weaving through them.  At a stop light a young boy was walking among the cars selling keychains and a woman was selling oranges that were slightly peeled with the top cut off so that you could suck the juice out of them.  The closer you get to the airport the bigger the houses get and you are driving among Range Rovers, BMWs, Mercedes and other brand new cars but as soon as you look over to the side of the road there is literally a woman selling rolls of toilet paper which she has stacked on her head.  Such contrasts and this strange organized chaos everywhere.  

After the airport we head to the mall to get our phones.  Joseph our FRI driver also brings us to a grocery store so we can buy toilet paper. He brings us to a western grocery store where you can buy Corn Flakes and Laughing Cow cheese and everything in between.  I bought a little packet of British Shortbread cookies because they were only 2 cedies (1$) but Elizabeth bought four small yogourts and it cost her 24 cedies (14$).  You gotta pick and choose.  

(mango frozen yogurt from the mall in Accra)

For diner Elizabeth, Andrew (a volunteer for another organization also in orientation) and I decide to go for Pizza.  Andrew heard about a place called Mama Mia that apparently makes the best pizza in Accra.  The taxi ride there is once again a feast (or an assault) on the eyes.  At a stop light, I see an add that says AIDS IS REAL, there are squeegees and, sadly, a man with one foot sitting on an old skateboard begging for money between the cars.  

Friday.  Finally at the FRI office but nothing to do yet.  Ben our coordinator is conducting interviews for an accounting position.  Elizabeth and I meet Lisa, another FRI volunteer.  She is of German and Italian descent.  She's super nice and offers to bring us for lunch.  After lunch we meet with Ben and talk about our plans for the next 3 1/2 weeks.  i'm reassured that there actually is work and it seems lots of it too.  I had to read one of my emergency letters.  i know, only after three days and although nothing major has happened everything is sooo different it gets a little overwhelming.  

(front page of the newpaper in the FRI office, Friday May 17th 2013)

(a few articles from that newspaper, May 17th 2013)

After our day at FRI Lisa offers to take us out.  FIRST TRO TRO RIDE.  What's a tro tro you ask?  Its a very old mini van that looks like it comes out of the 70's that they fill up with as many people as they can and bring you along a specific route.  Ours wasn't to full so it was good for a first time but one of the guys who got off also took the 6 pieces of 2x4 he had slid on the floor of the tro tro. After being dropped off we walked about 7 minutes to where we were going to hang out.  The terracotta earth is so bright and, mixed in with the millions of other colours coming from the taxis and people and "shops" its pretty amazing.  Elizabeth and Lisa had a road side coconut.  I wasn't brave enough.  Baby steps.  We hung out with two other expats for the evening Carly and Waqas (hi!!)  It was nice to laugh and socialize.  

(forgotten piece of cheese i found in my bag.  its been there since the flight)

So there it is.  We are now Saturday.  I slept until 11h30.  Listened to a bit of Grands Lacs café this morning and have been relaxing ever since.  Tonight, some expats are going out but I decided to pass.  I'll probably go to the market tomorrow as my weekend activity.  Baby steps.  I'll admit i've cried, i've wondered what the hell i'm doing here, i've been worried and scared and overwhelmed by it all BUT i've also met some amazing people, i've laughed AND I'm not sick.  Its only day four.  

I will try to write as much as possible and not for so long and add tons of photos too.  Looking forward to writing for you and feel free to write comments.  

Lessons learned this week - 

1- always have toilet paper with you

2- always have water with you

3- time here is virtually non existent

4- don't wait until your are hungry to go for food

S 

(from Accra)