Won't you be my neighbour

Two for one this week.  Just thought I would share some seemingly not related photos of random things in my everyday life.  Lets start with Fadil!!!

(Fadil in my hat)

Fadil is one of the kids that are in my neighbourhood.  He caught my attention because as soon as he sees our cab drive up to the house he runs as fast as he can on his little bare feet (which incidentally is pretty fast) because he wants to shut the door of the cab once we are out.  He does not understand english but one day as he was hanging out and checking the tires and lights on our taxi a neighbouring woman walked by and noticed that I was chatting with him.  She asked him something and he nodded his little head.  Not a bob up and down just a one time yup with his head.  I asked the taxi driver to translate what she just said because his response made her laugh.  He told me that she asked him if he would marry me.  hehehe too freakin' cute.  I managed to make him smile with me for the first time this morning.  He'll be my great friend soon I just know it.  

(where I live)

I have already posted a few photos of the inside of our place but my mom requested outside photos as well.  Notice there are three houses in our compound.  The one on the right is Elizabeth and I's two bedroom house.  On the left is a one bedroom house.  Shamima lives there.  She is a young woman who works for the Vodafone (Ghan's Bell) company. Her husband is away doing his studies in America and when he gets back he will live there with her.  In the third, three bedroom house, is Francis.  He is in in 30's and is an assistant lecturer at the university.  They are both extremely nice and I am thankful to have such great neighbours.  

(our little compound)

The neighbours on the outside of the wall are just as nice, at least the ones I have spoken to as brief as it may be sometimes.  The one I speak with the most is a seamstress that has a table set up just beside my house and just in front of hers.  I don't have any photos of her nor do I remember her name sadly. (I've noticed its difficult to remember names when they are so different from what I am used to hearing) I also am not enough aquainted with her to ask for a picture but I promise to have some at some point.  She works with three other ladies everyday at this table under the one tree that stands there.  Her english is good enough that we can chat and she can translate what the other ladies are saying.  She has a little tiny girl named Fahima (no pictures yet) that used to cry when she saw me.  White people are pretty scary to the little ones.  But, she is getting used to me as well and I'm just about getting some smiles out of her.  

(an artsy sewing photo)

(old school equipment) 

Just for fun I thought I would add some of our loot when we go to the market as well as a photo of the first meal we had at home that was not chicken and rice.  This happened some weeks ago but still worth sharing I think.  

(fish with roasted carrots and onions and a salad with lime and olive oil dressing)

(our market loot)

And speaking of small pleasures, I recently bought a tupperwear set.  I chose it because it had un unbelievably exciting feature.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 

(ooooooouuuHHHHHHH) 

(mmm apple!!!)

Lastly, I'll talk about an office protocol that seems to transcend in other organizations as well.  They call it Asset Registry and labelling.  In theory it is a very logical process that consists of making a list of the assets aquired for specific projects in order to keep track of expenses.  What is interesting, not to say odd (and well, I find funny) is that they label the office equipment.  You might say "that's not so odd" well take a look...

(my desk...labelled)

(a computer...labelled)

(chairs...labelled)

(air conditionner...labelled)

(printer...labelled)

On top of that, there is a specific person whom they refer to as an artist (and he very well may be) that comes in and does this for them.  The guy that did this batch took the entire day.  Elizabeth and I, when we were on our way to see our place for the first time, got a ride with a friend.  He mentioned he had something to do for the office before going to see the house.  On a saturday, we drove to the "artist's" house.  He came with us to the other end of town to meet, on the side of the road, a man who had a laptop.  The "artist" (again he may well be) took out his paintbrush and paint and labeled the laptop.  It was then handed back to the man standing on the side of the road.  He was warned that it would take some time to dry and to not put it back into the case.  We then drove back to the "artist's" house to drop him off and went on our way.  The only thing I can think of is that this is an ingenious way of creating jobs for artists.  Ghanian style!!!  

Nice day for a colourful wedding!

(getting my first Ghanaian piece of clothing made)

They say when you come to Africa if you have the chance to go to a wedding a funeral or a baptism you should go.  Well, I had the chance to go to a wedding...sort of.  Rabi, the bride, which I met during the Bolgatanga workshop my second week in Ghana, invited me and Elizabeth to her wedding.  I was very excited to experience this since Rabi is Muslim and I knew it would be very different form anything I had ever seen before.  

She mentioned that if we wanted to we could get some clothing made out of special cloth that many of the women at her wedding would be wearing.  I decided to get a wrap skirt made and, although it was not exactly how I wanted it to be, it was quite pretty.  

(the fabric my skirt is made out of)

Muslim weddings are very long.  They last three days.  The first, saturday, is mostly a preparation day.  The women get together to cook and prepare the activities.  Rabi said we should drop by.  On this day you can be casual since you are working.  I decided to go.  I arrived at noon.  Rabi was sitting in a small room with a few of her friends and it seems her day consisted of greeting guests.  She also got her hair extensions put in.  I spent most of three hours in the room with her and her friends.  There was about 15 minutes of english during the hole afternoon.  I’m not complaining.  

What i did have the chance to do was “help out” with the banku.  You will see in the following photos that I was not very good at it.  

(seeing how it is done)

(my turn to try with a little help and a little spillage) 

(still spilling and clearly very entertaining)

(on my own now, spilling BUT also getting some applause) 

(letting the pro's do it) 

(the pots, the wood, the fire)

Day two of the wedding.  Rabi mentioned that festivities begin at 8h30 and like a good Harrison I was there at 8h20.  Upon arrival I helped the women pack the rice and pepper sauce and beef into take away containers for later.  Rabi was not around so I took a few pictures of the kids.  They were all VERY happy about this.  So much so that sometimes it got a little crowded.  Rabi then made her appearance.  She looked like a completely different person.  Her dress was more subtle then I expected but the red and white was still quite striking.  Her head piece was my favourite.  It was amazing. 

(the bride)

(the bride)

(3 inches for sure)

(the head piece)

 In fact, many of the head pieces that the women were wearing were very pretty. I love how they manage to wrap it around and have it make these beautiful patterns.  Rabi then sat in that same little room and greeted guests.  I sat in the shade for a while, then went for a bit of a walk to see what the men were up to.  They were sitting in the shade chatting.  I asked the “elders” if I could snap a photo and they said yes!!!  

(guest at wedding)

(in the shade)

Back at the compound with the women the kids wanted me to “snap them”.  After about three hours I decided to go out of the compound where everyone was for a cigarette and a bit of a break from the kids.  There I was approached by a guy who said he was the grooms brother ( I never did get to see the groom).  He wanted to get a picture with me and my number but I managed to deter the conversation and got this photo instead. (see below)

(distraction was a success)

(snap snap)

(helping to set up the chairs)

(colour colour everywhere)

(pretty in yellow)

(keeping busy)

(shy smile)

(piercing look)

(growing up)

(was also sitting on a motorcycle)

(lets all try to get in this one)

And suddenly, familiar faces. Some of the people who work at the radio stations with us arrived.  Friends at last!!! We chatted a moment, they went to say hello to Rabi.  We all sat and chatted for about five minutes and then off they were.  I asked if anything was going to happen during the rest of the day and they told me that the actual ceremony had probably happened extremely early that morning and that nothing would really happen until the next day when they bring the bride to the grooms house.  Since I had been there three and a half hours I decided to get a ride home with them.  Elizabeth who went much later in the afternoon did get to see some traditional dancing.  I am a little disappointed that I did not get to see that but hey what can you do?!?

(radio friends with the bride)

So all in all I did not really get to experience a complete Muslim wedding but I did see some cute kids, some amazingly beautiful women and some lovely older and most probably very wise men.  I’m looking forward to actually sitting down with Rabi over a coke and discussing it all with her.  How does she feel now being married? How will her life be different now than it was before? etc. etc.  

"Move your hips!"

Sunday morning and finally a bit of time to relax.  I have officially been in Ghana one month and in that time I have spent one week in Accra, one week in Bolgatanga, one week in Tamale then back up to Bolgatanga for a few days, even further up to Tumu and  now back in Tamale.  Oh and I turned 33 OUFFF!  

On the up side Elizabeth and I have moved into our home for the next nine months.  Its very exciting.  Its a little two bedroom house, new build.  Our landlord accepted to furnish it so we have beds, a living room set, a stove and a refrigerator.  Today for the first time I had food that did not come from a restaurant. There have been so many chicken and rice meals it was great to have an apple with toast and jam and a bit of cucumber.   Imagine that, me excited about making food at home.  I’ve come to realize since I’ve been here that food and me, well its difficult.  I’m not very good at planning and in Africa if you get hungry it takes another two hours at least before you can put something in your stomach so planning is important.  

(chicken and rice)

(the kitchen)

(the living room)

We went to the market yesterday.  It was fun.  We were accompanied by a guy named Nash.  He has been driving us around and helping with all kinds of things for the past couple of weeks.  He is the brother of the guy (Mahshood) who found our house.  Mahshood used to work for Lydia.  They have all been very nice.  It makes things easier to have a Ghanaian with you.  They don’t diminish the stares but they do diminish the amount of people, men, who will talk to you.  I’m not gonna lie it is pretty intense.  For the first time in my life I stick out and nobody lets you forget it.  Mostly its harmless but it makes any outing very tiring.  I imagine after a few months I will be an old pro and it won’t be as difficult. 

A few weeks ago, when we were still at a guest house I decided to go for a little walk.  I could hear music down the street and was intrigued.  I turned the corner and saw a very large group of people walking and singing.  They were going to a church service i think.  There did not seem to be any kind of special occasion; no wedding couple, no sign of a  passing or baptism just what seemed to be a regular church service plus the walk with the singing and the dancing.  I know that church here is always a big deal.  I stood on the side of the road a little ways away and watched the colourful parade of people walk into the church yard.  I definitely had a “holy shit I’m in Africa” moment.  

(church celebration)

I also had my first street food experience; some fried yams.  I was not brave enough to try the street meat but that will come. The fried yams were cut like french fries but very large ones.  They were very starchy and I think they would be a bit better if they were cut smaller but it still good and I’m sure I’ll have them again. 

(street food)

(street meat)

At the hotel in Bolgatanga there is a pool. YES!!! We met Samantha there.  She is 9 and was staying at the hotel with her parents and little brothers. She desperately wanted us to teach her how to swim but seemed to think it would come instantly.  Instead, she taught us a few dance moves and thought we were very funny.  I was, shyly, trying to do one of the moves she taught us and she said with a little bit of sass in her Ghanian 9 year old voice “move your hips!” hahaha too funny.  Her parent’s were lovely as well and told us that when we get to the Takoradi region we should call and they would show us around.  Its interesting because as much as you get the men ogling you and asking your name and staring all the time you also get a kindness that in Canada would be more difficult to come by.  p.s. Most Ghanians in the North of the country do not know how to swim since there are no lakes in this part of the country.  

Last Friday, I went out at night for the first time since i’ve been here.  Elizabeth, originally from Mexico and Ecuador, managed to find a Salsa club here in Tamale.  We went with a group of expats.  The club is set up so that part of the night there are mini salsa lessons then the music comes up and you can dance on your own, well, with a partner.  I danced a few songs with a few different people.  Its fun.  I’m not a very good salsa dancer but with someone who knows how to lead I can manage pretty good.  Elizabeth was impressed so I guess I’m not that bad.  

(Elizabeth, Samantha and her brothers)

(working the goggles)

And here we are Sunday morning.  This week we are in Tamale and will visit the radio stations again.  We thought it would be wise to see them twice in the first month we work with them and try to get the ball rolling properly.  That means another trip to Bolgatanga and Tumu before the end of June.  I thought I would leave you with a few more animal photos and a few newspaper clippings. 

  

 (cow)

(chicken with chicks and garbage)

 

 (more cows)

(goats in the street)

(baby goats)

(donkey in the streets of Tumu)

(illegal Chinese miners want to go home)

(fashion fashion everywhere)